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Annapurna Himal, Nepal / Expedition

Annapurna I Expedition

An expedition to Annapurna I from the north, with a remote approach through the Thulo Bugin and Mristi Khola country.

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The Annapurna massif
The Annapurna massif.
Duration
56 daysOutline programme
Summit objective
8,091 mRoute objective
Season
SpringAsk for current dates
Experience
High-altitude expeditionExpedition

A closer look at the journey.

Annapurna I requires an expedition approach quite different from the familiar Annapurna Sanctuary trek. This programme travels from the Kali Gandaki valley through the Thulo Bugin area and Mristi Khola to the mountain base. The climbing objective is serious, with avalanche exposure and complex terrain requiring experienced teams and conservative decisions.

The approach and climbing phases form one extended mountain journey. Time above base camp is used for acclimatization, carrying equipment, rest and a summit attempt when conditions allow. Discuss your climbing history with us so that the route, team support and equipment plan suit the objective and your experience.

  • Northern expedition approach to Annapurna I
  • Remote Thulo Bugin and Mristi Khola camps
  • Kali Gandaki villages on the return

The route, day by day.

This is an outline programme. The team will confirm the route and arrangements with you, allowing for weather, access and local conditions.

Day 1-3Kathmandu preparation

Arrive, check equipment and complete expedition arrangements.

Day 4Drive to Beni

Travel west to the Kali Gandaki approach.

Day 5-7Tatopani, Ghasa and Lete

Follow the valley approach towards Lete.

Day 8-10Thulo Bugin to Mristi Khola

Enter the remote approach over the Thulo Bugin route.

Day 11Annapurna Base Camp

Reach the expedition base and organize camp.

Day 12-47Annapurna climbing period

Acclimatize and establish camps, with the summit objective governed by conditions and risk assessment.

Day 48Clear base camp

Pack the camp and prepare the return loads.

Day 49-52Return to Jomsom

Retrace the high approach to Lete, then continue through Tukuche and Marpha.

Day 53Return via Pokhara

Travel back to Kathmandu, subject to flight and road arrangements.

Day 54-55Kathmandu reserve days

Rest and complete the expedition debriefing.

Day 56Departure

Transfer for your onward journey.

A clear plan and quotation.

Request an itemised quotation for your group, dates and preferred level of support. Agree the inclusions before booking travel.

Services to discuss

  • Agree the permit arrangements and in-country transport in your quotation.
  • Agree the guiding, porter support and responsibilities on the mountain.
  • Agree accommodation, camp facilities and the meals provided at each stage.
  • Agree shared climbing equipment, communications and emergency arrangements.

Budget separately

  • International travel, entry documents and costs outside the agreed programme.
  • Personal climbing equipment and insurance appropriate to the itinerary.
  • Personal spending, tips and any separately agreed climbing staff bonuses.
  • Additional accommodation, transport or evacuation costs if plans change.

Before you set out.

Extensive high-altitude expedition experience, strong technical skills and sound judgement in avalanche terrain are essential.

Accommodation: Hotels in Kathmandu, trekking lodges or approach camps, and tented climbing camps.

Use the trip preparation guide to plan equipment, travel documents and questions for the team.

Is the summit attempt on a fixed day?

The itinerary gives a climbing window. Your guide will adjust the attempt, rest days and descent to the conditions and the team. Reaching the summit cannot be guaranteed.

What experience should I discuss before booking?

Extensive high-altitude expedition experience, strong technical skills and sound judgement in avalanche terrain are essential. Share details of your recent climbs, altitude experience and rope skills so that we can assess the preparation and support required.

Other journeys to explore.

Everest, Lhotse and Makalu catching the last sun, seen from Gokyo Ri

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Bhim PaudelExecutive Director

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Highest altitude so far, any summits, and when you can travel.