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Kanchenjunga region, Nepal / Peak climbing

Bokta Peak

A long eastern Nepal trek through Ghunsa and the Kanchenjunga north approach leads to a remote Bokta Peak climbing programme.

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Kanchenjunga seen from Gangtok
Kanchenjunga seen from Gangtok.
Duration
25 daysOutline programme
Summit objective
6,143 mRoute objective
Season
Spring / AutumnAsk for current dates
Experience
Technical peak climbingPeak climbing

A closer look at the journey.

Bokta Peak combines a remote climbing objective with an extensive journey in the Kanchenjunga region. The approach passes through Ghunsa and continues towards Lhonak and Pangpema before turning back towards the Lapsang area. The return follows the southern valley through Tseram and Yamphudin, giving the expedition the character of a broad eastern Nepal circuit.

The programme combines an approach trek with time for climbing preparation and a summit attempt. Snow, glacier conditions and weather can change the route and daily plan. Tell us about your mountain experience before booking so that we can agree the equipment, guiding and preparation needed for this particular climb.

  • Ghunsa, Lhonak and Pangpema approach
  • Remote Bokta climbing camps
  • Southern return through Tseram and Yamphudin

The route, day by day.

This is an outline programme. The team will confirm the route and arrangements with you, allowing for weather, access and local conditions.

Day 1-5Travel to the eastern approach

Leave Kathmandu for eastern Nepal and follow the Basantapur, Chauki and Gupha Pokhari route towards Mitlung.

Day 6-10Approach to Ghunsa

Trek through Chiruwa, Sakathum, Amjilosa and Gyabla to Ghunsa.

Day 11-13Kanchenjunga north approach

Continue through Khambachen and Lhonak, with an excursion towards Pangpema.

Day 14-17Return towards the Bokta approach

Descend towards Ghunsa and move into the Lapsang area, with a rest day before climbing.

Day 18-19Bokta climbing programme

Establish a higher camp and attempt the peak when conditions allow, returning towards Lapsang.

Day 20-22Southern valley descent

Continue through Tseram and Torongden to Yamphudin.

Day 23-24Return towards Suketar

Trek through the lower villages to the agreed eastern road or air connection.

Day 25Return to Kathmandu

Travel back to Kathmandu by the agreed connection.

A clear plan and quotation.

Request an itemised quotation for your group, dates and preferred level of support. Agree the inclusions before booking travel.

Services to discuss

  • Agree the permit arrangements and in-country transport in your quotation.
  • Agree the guiding, porter support and responsibilities on the mountain.
  • Agree accommodation, camp facilities and the meals provided at each stage.
  • Agree shared climbing equipment, communications and emergency arrangements.

Budget separately

  • International travel, entry documents and costs outside the agreed programme.
  • Personal climbing equipment and insurance appropriate to the itinerary.
  • Personal spending, tips and any separately agreed climbing staff bonuses.
  • Additional accommodation, transport or evacuation costs if plans change.

Before you set out.

Strong remote trekking experience and competent glacier, crampon and rope skills are required, with readiness for sustained camping and limited access.

Accommodation: Hotels in Kathmandu, trekking lodges or approach camps, and tented climbing camps.

Use the trip preparation guide to plan equipment, travel documents and questions for the team.

Is the summit attempt on a fixed day?

The itinerary gives a climbing window. Your guide will adjust the attempt, rest days and descent to the conditions and the team. Reaching the summit cannot be guaranteed.

What experience should I discuss before booking?

Strong remote trekking experience and competent glacier, crampon and rope skills are required, with readiness for sustained camping and limited access. Share details of your recent climbs, altitude experience and rope skills so that we can assess the preparation and support required.

Other journeys to explore.

Everest, Lhotse and Makalu catching the last sun, seen from Gokyo Ri

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Bhim PaudelExecutive Director

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Season

Highest altitude so far, any summits, and when you can travel.