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Makalu-Barun, Nepal / Expedition

Makalu Expedition

A long approach through Makalu-Barun leads to a demanding expedition on the pyramid of Makalu.

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Mount Makalu viewed from the southwest
Mount Makalu viewed from the southwest.
Duration
60 daysOutline programme
Summit objective
8,485 mRoute objective
Season
SpringAsk for current dates
Experience
High-altitude expeditionExpedition

A closer look at the journey.

Makalu is reached through the contrasting landscapes of eastern Nepal, from the lower Arun valley to the high Barun basin. The approach passes Num and Tashi Gaon before crossing into remote mountain country. A long climbing period allows the team to acclimatize and work towards an objective requiring considerable technical and expedition experience.

The approach and climbing phases form one extended mountain journey. Time above base camp is used for acclimatization, carrying equipment, rest and a summit attempt when conditions allow. Discuss your climbing history with us so that the route, team support and equipment plan suit the objective and your experience.

  • Arun valley and Makalu-Barun approach
  • Remote camps below the Makalu massif
  • A substantial window for acclimatization and climbing

The route, day by day.

This is an outline programme. The team will confirm the route and arrangements with you, allowing for weather, access and local conditions.

Day 1-4Kathmandu preparation

Arrive and allow several days for equipment, permits and expedition preparation.

Day 5-8Tumlingtar to Num

Fly to Tumlingtar and follow the approach through Khandbari, Mane Bhanjyang and Chichira.

Day 9-10Sedua and Tashi Gaon

Cross into the Makalu approach and reach Tashi Gaon.

Day 11-14High approach to the Barun basin

Continue through Kauma, Dobato and the upper valley towards the expedition camps.

Day 15-16Makalu base and staging camps

Establish the mountain base and prepare for the climbing phase.

Day 17-50Makalu climbing period

Use camp rotations, rest and suitable weather windows for the ascent and descent.

Day 51Clear base camp

Pack equipment and prepare for the walk out.

Day 52-57Return to Khandbari

Descend through the Barun approach, Tashi Gaon and Num.

Day 58Tumlingtar to Kathmandu

Reach Tumlingtar and return by air when conditions permit.

Day 59Kathmandu reserve day

Rest and complete remaining arrangements.

Day 60Departure

Transfer for your onward journey.

A clear plan and quotation.

Request an itemised quotation for your group, dates and preferred level of support. Agree the inclusions before booking travel.

Services to discuss

  • Agree the permit arrangements and in-country transport in your quotation.
  • Agree the guiding, porter support and responsibilities on the mountain.
  • Agree accommodation, camp facilities and the meals provided at each stage.
  • Agree shared climbing equipment, communications and emergency arrangements.

Budget separately

  • International travel, entry documents and costs outside the agreed programme.
  • Personal climbing equipment and insurance appropriate to the itinerary.
  • Personal spending, tips and any separately agreed climbing staff bonuses.
  • Additional accommodation, transport or evacuation costs if plans change.

Before you set out.

Extensive expedition experience, strong steep snow and ice skills, and effective movement at extreme altitude are essential.

Accommodation: Hotels in Kathmandu, trekking lodges or approach camps, and tented climbing camps.

Use the trip preparation guide to plan equipment, travel documents and questions for the team.

Is the summit attempt on a fixed day?

The itinerary gives a climbing window. Your guide will adjust the attempt, rest days and descent to the conditions and the team. Reaching the summit cannot be guaranteed.

What experience should I discuss before booking?

Extensive expedition experience, strong steep snow and ice skills, and effective movement at extreme altitude are essential. Share details of your recent climbs, altitude experience and rope skills so that we can assess the preparation and support required.

Other journeys to explore.

Everest, Lhotse and Makalu catching the last sun, seen from Gokyo Ri

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Bhim PaudelExecutive Director

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Highest altitude so far, any summits, and when you can travel.